BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
TUDOR is introducing an additional model as part of its Black Bay line, the Black Bay Fifty‑Eight, whose dimensions are similar to the brand’s first divers’ watches. This model is fitted with a new TUDOR manufacture movement with a medium-sized diameter.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch, waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39 mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. It is aptly proportioned to suit slim wrists, people who like more compact watches and, of course, vintage enthusiasts. It also comes in a new colour combination – a subtle variation on the aesthetics of the Black Bay line. Evocative of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made, finishing touches in gold have been applied to the hour markers, hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. The winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel – a new feature in the Black Bay line – in keeping with the style of the case and winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief.
DISCOVER THE TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5402
In 2018, three years after the introduction of its first Manufacture Calibre, TUDOR launches a second family of movements. With its 26 mm diameter, the Calibre MT5402 displays hour, minute and second functions and has been designed for medium-sized TUDOR watches.
The Calibre MT5402 has the appearance and finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its openwork rotor is entirely satin-brushed and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations.
Its structure has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, it is certified as a chronometer the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). With a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it.
The bracelet of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads that attached the links, as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links.
Two additional designs are available: a brown leather strap with a folding clasp or black fabric strap with a goldcoloured band. Made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family firm from the St-Etienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR, which is thought to be a pioneer in this area.
Like other models in the Black Bay line, Black Bay Fifty-Eight features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. They adopt the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its large winding crown and the red triangle of its rotatable bezel are identifying features from the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches that were waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft).
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
|CASE||39 mm steel case with polished and satin finish|
|BEZEl||Unidirectional rotatable bezel in steel with 60-minute graduated disc in matt black anodised aluminium and pink gilded markings and numerals|
|WINDING CROWN||Steel screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube|
|CRYSTAL||Domed sapphire crystal|
|WATERPROOFNESS||Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)|
|BRACELET||Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish or brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch or black fabric strap with a gold-coloured band and with buckle|
|CALIBRE||Manufacture Calibre MT5402 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
|PRECISION||Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)|
|FUNCTIONS||Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting|
|OSCILLATOR||Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
|TOTAL DIAMETER||26 mm|
|POWER RESERVE||Approximately 70 hours|